23 November, 2024

Touring Tokyo 東京

 

Mount Fuji, with Chureito Pagoda in foreground

Like most of our countrymen, I grew up wondering about the Japanese people who, so fastidiously, manufactured swift bullet trains, flawless motor vehicles, robust electrical appliances, thrilling video games and durable quartz watches. They had to be devoted not just to their employers, but to their beliefs, and to their country at large, I thought. Leading highly disciplined and orderly lives, the Japanese are a nation apart, as I and my wife discovered over a month’s holiday in Tokyo and its adjoining cities.

After a rather long wait at Narita Airport’s immigration section, we walked to the carousels to collect our baggage. We were somehow the last ones and the airport staff was looking for us. On seeing us a lady appeared, bowed courteously, checked our baggage tags and handed us our suitcases while offering any assistance that we might need. That was the first of a series of polite gestures that we were exposed to during our stay.

We were headed towards densely populated Minato City in the heart of Tokyo, where most of the embassies are located.  Due to immensely costly real estate, almost 70% of Tokyo-ites live in high-rise apartment complexes, while the rich 30% or so live in independent houses not much larger than five marlas. The cost of living, as can be imagined, is very high.

Must-see Places in Tokyo

After a day of rest, we began our tour of important tourist places in Tokyo. We started with Odaiba, one of the man-made seashores in Tokyo Bay. A hearty desi lunch at Mumbai Restaurant in the vast Aqua City Mall was followed by some shopping and photography. Not far in the background is the beautiful Rainbow Bridge which connects the Odaiba waterfront with Tokyo Port. At night, the suspension bridge looks dazzling with its multi-coloured lights, hence the popular name, rather than the official mouthful: ‘Shuto Expressway No 11 Daiba Route – Port of Tokyo Connector Bridge.’

On another visit to Odaiba, while taking an evening stroll in Daiba Park, a noisy group of youngsters in punkish appearance emerged from nowhere, and approached us. Taken aback and fearing some despicable behavior, we tried to pace away, but they seemed friendly and in their senses, as they came closer. One of them offered to take our pictures with my mobile phone. On learning that we were from Pakistan, they were quite amused, apparently having seen our kind for the first time. They were all smiles when we told them that we were enjoying our stay in their beautiful country. Appreciative bows followed, and we were careful not to offer handshakes as Japanese prefer to keep physical distance, except with their immediate family – and their pets!

Shinjuku City is a popular shopping locality of Tokyo, which we visited often. Shinjuku houses the world’s busiest railway station that caters to as many as three million passengers daily. The vast above-ground and underground railway station has 52 platforms and 200 entry/exit gates. It is such a wonder of advanced technology and competent management that train arrivals and departures are timed in seconds! Also located in Shinjuku is the Tokyo Municipal Government Building, which is the administrative nerve center of Tokyo during day time, while at night its towering facade serves as a popular sound-and-light projection screen. Commercial activities of all sorts abound in Shinjuku; no surprise if you see a trendy restaurant serving sushi and lobster – for humans – next to a café for poodles, pugs and terriers, as Japanese are keen dog-lovers!  Hotels, spas and beauty salons for the four-legged critters thrive in every locality.

We had to collect some souvenirs to take back home, and the go-to market for that shopping was at the Sensō-ji Temple. The temple was first established in 645 AD, making it the oldest Buddhist shrine in Tokyo. Sadly, after surviving for 1,300 years, it was fire-bombed in 1945, shortly before the end of World War II. The shrine, its two entrance gates, and the adjacent five-story pagoda were rebuilt, the work being complete in 1973. Our interest was in Nakamise-Dori Street leading to the temple entrance.  The street is lined on both sides with 90-odd shops selling traditional wares and handicrafts. We shopped for mugs, glasses, fridge magnets and ceramic wares, featuring landmarks like Mount Fuji, Tokyo Tower, and Tokyo Skytree. The helpful sales-women, some of them in their eighties, could speak passable English, a language that most Japanese do not seem to have any interest in. Rent-a-kimono is a popular fad at Sensō-ji, and many traditionally-clad Westerners roamed about taking pictures.

Like Shinjuku, Shibuya City is Tokyo’s major commercial center, along with a very busy railway terminus. A fascinating feature of Shibuya City is the Shibuya Crossing, popularly known as ‘Scramble Crossing’. As many as 3,000 people scramble across the pedestrian crossings every time the traffic lights turn green, making it the world’s busiest. We too did the famous Shibuya Crossing, while recording a video like everyone else. For us, the wonder was that no vehicle ran a red light during several visits we made to Shibuya.  In Japan, running a red light carries a very heavy fine, and even jail.

Close to the crossing, we saw a long queue, with people patiently waiting to take photographs with a monument dedicated to a dog. The dog named Hachiko is remembered for his steadfast loyalty to his deceased owner. Hachiko Square is a popular meeting point for youngsters.

Ginza is a fashionable shopping area of Tokyo, with numerous internationally renowned department stores, boutiques, restaurants and coffee houses. Considered to be one of the most expensive, elegant and luxurious city districts in the world, it is frequented by the rich and famous. We were quite contended to drive through Ginza several times, especially at night, when its electronic billboards and neon signs liven up the scene. The Imperial Palace, residence of the emperor, is not far from Ginza. Located in a forested park, it is surrounded by a moat. A popular jogging track, 5-km in circuit, encircles the palace.

Hakone and Mount Fuji

A visit to Tokyo would be incomplete without seeing Mount Fuji from a close distance. Familiar with Mount Fuji since our school days, we got to see it in all its splendour. A two-hour drive from Minato (Tokyo) to Hakone Checkpoint was most enjoyable as we passed through dense forests dotted with charming cottages along the way. Nearing Lake Ashi, we hastened to take photographs of two ‘pirate’ boats packed with tourists, sailing in to dock. After a delicious desi lunch at The Bistro, we drove off to the nearby Hakone Ropeway, a cable car facility that takes tourists to Ōwakudani Station from where Mount Fuji is clearly visible. The famous hot springs spewing out pungent sulphur-laden gases can also be seen, and smelt. Eggs boiled in the hot springs turn jet-black, and are a novel snack among tourists. After a day well spent, we headed back with lots of photographs to remind us of the wonderful outing.

Yokohama

One Sunday afternoon we decided to visit Yokohama which is just an hour’s drive from Tokyo. Yokohama is known for more than just vehicle tyres. It is the second-largest city in Japan by population, and by area it is the country’s largest municipality. Yokohama is also the major economic, cultural, and commercial hub of the Greater Tokyo Area. All along the 40-odd kilometers to the city, one could see factories and warehouses. Yokohama is home to some unique architecture. Some of the places we saw in Tokyo included the nautical-themed Intercontinental Grand Hotel, the Yokohama Port Memorial Hall, the Customs Museum (quite like the KPT building in Karachi), and the Zenrinmon Gate that opens into the city’s Chinatown. The city seemed more open and spacious than Tokyo. The Sunday was well spent exploring Yokohama.

Kawagoe

The last of our day trips outside of Tokyo was to the city of Kawagoe, which is famous for its historic buildings. It has been the center of conflicts between various Shogunates for at least six hundred years. A part of the city was destroyed in a fire in 1893, but some of the buildings still stand. The main street is jam-packed with local and foreign tourists. Rides in jin-rickshaws pulled by men in traditional uniforms are popular amongst tourists. Notable amongst the buildings in Kawagoe is the 230-year old Bell Tower which houses a bell that is manually struck four times a day to tell the time. Nearby is the neatly maintained Hikawa Buddhist Shrine and cemetery. The cultural heritage of Japan is well-reflected on the streets of Kawagoe, as we saw for ourselves.

Some Anecdotal Observations

o   During our stay, we noted that most Japanese are introverts of sorts, and prefer to keep to themselves, without seeming snobbish. Conversations in trains and buses are rare.

o   Japanese people are sticklers for detail, and perform tasks with complete dedication.

o   All the places we visited in and around Tokyo were clinically clean. Littering is unknown to the Japanese.

o   Japanese prefer staid and sober dresses, and gaudy colours are usually seen only at festivals. Blue, gray, white and beige dresses are more common for daily wear.

o   On many an occasion, we were amused to see women pushing baby strollers, which actually had a small well-manicured poodle inside!

o   Buses and trains are the preferred mode of transport as taxis are costly. Parking for private cars is quite a hassle.

o   Traffic discipline is strictly enforced. Little children can be seen negotiating pedestrian crossings all by themselves. Honking is virtually unheard of, as in most civilized countries.

o   Parks and gardens are landscaped according to a natural setting, and are maintained with amazing care. If one wishes to slow down and step back in time, a visit to a park is recommended.

o   Street crime is virtually non-existent, and women and children are safe in lonely places, even at night.

o   Long working hours and job pressures have adversely affected family life, and is a significant cause of suicide.

o   Old people continue to perform light tasks well into their seventies and eighties.

o   Daily testing of loudspeakers is done in all localities by playing a short musical jingle to ensure timely disaster warning, just in case. The time of the testing is 5 pm, which is also a notification of pack-up time.

o   There is not much enthusiasm amongst youngsters for joining the military, as past militarism still invokes feelings of remorse.

Tailpiece: Our takeaway of the one-month long stay in Tokyo is that the Japanese undertake every task with complete devotion and dedication, because they are proud of their country and endeavour to make it the best in the world.

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© Kaiser Tufail